Surfers Textbook


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This process involves using another specialised resin. A wide, clean brush is used to evenly spread a thin layer of finish resin which, when cured, is extremely smooth, clear and shiny. It will depend upon the quality of the finish coat as to how much additional finishing is required to achieve a mirror like result. The cutting and polishing process is explained in the following section.

Several factors should be kept in mind when finish coating. It is essential that the area the work is to take place in is relatively free of dust. In order to have such an environment, floors need to be swept and cleaned well beforehand, to allow fine dust particles to settle from the air and breezeways need to be closed. If possible concrete floors should be hosed down.

Caution must be exercised regarding the fumes from chemicals used in an enclosed area, hence wearing a respirator and minimising the time spent in the room is essential.

As when applying the filler coat, polyester solvent or preferably styrene monomer, can be used to clean dirty marks from the prepared surface.

Once again only one surface is coated at a time, not forgetting glass–on fins. Masking tape is applied around the middle of the rails to prevent resin from running to the underneath surface. A clean, wide brush specifically designed for resins should be worked in the hands to remove any loose hairs when the brush is being used for the first time.

Since it is only a thin layer of resin being brushed onto the surface it is necessary to add a greater percentage of catalyst than required when laminating, as less heat is generated to assist in the curing process.

Where filler coat sprays have been done, generally a gloss coat is not applied due to the dangers of abrading through the thin coat of resin when cutting back. In preference a clear automotive lacquer finish is sprayed over the board to protect the artwork. It looks good when new but does not seal or strengthen the board as a finish coat does.